Pattern: Mod Flower Susemi

Mod Flower Susemi

Use two colours of acrylic yarn, with hook size recommended for that yarn, or a size smaller for a denser item.

Make adjustable loop to begin.

Round 1: Ch 3, 13 dc into loop, sl st to beg. ch. (14 sts.)

Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc into space beside chain, 1 sc into next space. Continue around, alternating 2 sc/1 sc into each space, ending with 1 sc in space right beside beg. ch. Sl st to beg. ch. (21 sts., not including beg. ch.)

Round 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts. Continue around in pattern (2 sc, 1 sc, 1 sc), ending with 1 sc in st before beg. ch. Sl st to beg. ch. (28 sts, not including beg. ch.)

Round 4: Attach 2nd colour of yarn in any stitch, and ch 1. 2 sc in same stitch, 1 sc in next st. Continue around, alternating 2 sc/1 sc in each st, ending with 1 sc in st before beg. ch. Sl st to beg. ch. (42 sts, not including beg. ch.)

Round 5: Ch 3, 2 dc in same stitch as base of chain. Skip next 2 sts, 1 sc in 3rd st. Skip next 2 sts, 5 dc in 3rd st. Continue in pattern (1 sc, 5 dc) around, in every third stitch, ending with 1 sc in 3rd st before beg. ch. 2 dc in same stitch as base of chain, with other 3 stitches to complete 5 dc fan. Sl st to beg. ch. (42 sts.)

Cut yarn and sew in ends.

Pattern: Rainbow Flower Susemi

Rainbow Flower Susemi

Use acrylic yarn in five adjoining colours on the spectrum, and a smaller hook than recommended for that yarn.

Chain 5 and sl st to join into a loop.

Round 1: Ch 2, 11 hdc into loop, sl st to beg. ch. (12 sts.)

Round 2: Into any st, attach 2nd colour and ch 3. 1 dc into same st, then 2 dc into each stitch around, sl st to beg. ch. (24 sts.)

Round 3: Into the space between any two sts, attach 3rd colour and ch 2, 1 hdc into same space, 1 hdc into next space, 2 hdc into next space. Continue around, alternating 1 hdc/2 hdc into each space, ending with 1 hdc in space just before beg. ch. Sl st to beg. ch. (36 sts.)

Round 4: Into the space between any two sts, attach 4th colour and ch 3, 1 dc into same space. 1 dc into each of next two spaces, 2 dc into next space. Continue around in pattern (1 dc, 1 dc, 2 dc), ending with 1 dc in each of two spaces before beg. ch. Sl st to beg. ch. (48 sts.)

Round 5: Into space between any 2 dc in one stitch from previous row, attach 5th colour and ch 3. 2 dc in same space. Skip next space, 1 sc in following space. Skip next space, 5 dc in following space (this will be between 2 dc into one space from previous row), skip next space, 1 sc in following space. Continue around, in pattern (5 dc, 1 sc) in every other space, until 2 spaces before beg. ch (which should be 1 sc). 2 dc in same space as beg. ch and sl st to beg. ch. (72 sts.)

Cut yarn and sew in ends.

Pattern: Single Crochet Square Susemi

Single Crochet Square Susemi

Use fairly bulky acrylic yarn for this one, and size of hook suggested for yarn.

Round 1: Make an adjustable loop to start with, and ch 1 in loop. 1 sc, ch 2, (2 sc, ch 2) 3x, 1 sc, sl st to join to beg. ch. (8 sts, not including beg. ch.)

Round 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in next st, (1sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in ch space, (1 sc in each of next two sts, 1sc, ch 2, 1 sc in ch space) 3x, 1 sc in next st, sl st to beg. ch. (16 sts, not including beg. ch.)

Round 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts, (1sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in ch space, (1 sc in each of next 4 sts, 1sc, ch 2, 1 sc in ch space) 3x, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts, sl st to beg. ch. (24 sts, not including beg. ch.)

Round 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in each of next 3 sts, (1sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in ch space, (1 sc in each of next 6 sts, 1sc, ch 2, 1 sc in ch space) 3x, 1 sc in each of next 3 sts, sl st to beg. ch. (32 sts, not including beg. ch.)

Cut yarn and sew in ends.

Pattern: Simple Flower Susemi

Simple Flower Susemi

Use three colours of acrylic yarn, and size hook recommended for that yarn.

Make an adjustable loop to begin.

Round 1: Ch 1, sc 8 times in loop, sl st to beg. ch. Pull loop tight and secure end. (8 sts., not including beg. ch 1)

Round 2: Attach second colour just before beg. ch 1 of previous round, and ch 3. Using ch 3 as 1st st, make 2 dc into the 1st st. of previous round to complete a 3-dc puff, and ch 1. (1 3-dc puff, ch 1) in each of next 7 sts, sl st to beg. ch. (8 sts., one puff being counted as one stitch)

Round 3: Attach 3rd colour in ch space just before 1st st of previous round, ch 3 and sl st into 1st st of previous round. Ch 3 and sl st into ch space. Ch 3 and sl st into next st. Continue around, and attach last ch 3 picot to beginning of round. You will have 16 ch-3 picot bumps. Cut yarn and sew in ends.

Recipe: Beef Barley Soup

So I went grocery shopping a few days ago. Which was a bit of a feat, as the landlady didn’t bother to mention to me that they were going to redo the concrete on the side path to my house (they had ripped it up a couple weeks ago, just before Chusok, because of a blockage in one of the drains to the house–I think the hole they made there was another random hole and not where they actually found the blockage. This seems to be common around here…when there was a flood in my house a couple years back, they started ripping holes in each room of my house even though they really didn’t know which pipe had burst. Now THAT was fun. Remind me to tell you about it sometime.) So anyway, when I went out to go to the market, I found the path out of my house blocked. I suppose I could have found a way to scale the concrete wall behind my house, but I didn’t really feel like climbing something almost as high as my head in a skirt. So I removed the blocking pole and walked across it anyway, after making sure that it was at least dry enough to walk on. (She “happened” to call while I was at the market to tell me not to walk on the concrete. I say “happened” because I’m sure she was just being her old nosy self and actually saw me leave the house. By the way this was at about 8:30 at night, so I doubt it was just a coincidence. Which means she never really intended to inform me at all. Do I sound ungracious towards my landlady? There’s a whole big story behind that too. Remind me to tell you sometime, if you’re not one of the people to whom I have already vented my spleen, most of my liver, and possibly one of my kidneys about it.) Apparently, there IS another way to get out to the street from behind the building, but it requires squeezing through a 6″ opening beside my boiler room. I always thought that was walled off. Now I know. Can’t fit through it anyway.

So ANYWAY, I went grocery shopping. I kinda like grocery shopping. (Except for this weird thing that happens every time. As soon as I make the decision to go, it immediately starts raining. Very strange.) I especially like it when nice people chat with me a little while I’m at a counter or at the till. (That’s one of the things I miss about being a native speaker in Canada–the pleasant small talk with strangers.) And for some reason, I’ve been buying a bit more beef than usual, so I’ve had to ask for things at the butcher counter the past couple of times. The first time, the older butcher started off chatting with me (of course, finding out my age and my marital status as soon as possible–but I like the way he did so. Instead of blasting me with the question, point blank, he asked me what “sir’s” job was, after I mentioned that I had been in Korea for nine years.) Which sir, I asked? Oh, you mean my husband? Oh, I’m not married. He seemed surprised that I have stayed in Korea for nine years of my own volition, not because of my husband’s job. Soon after this, the young butcher came out, and the older informed him quite enthusiastically that I was not married and sort of got him to take over the rest of my order. So butcher the younger proceeded to chat me up while he was mincing my beef. Quite fun.

So this time, even though they had the stewing beef I needed prepackaged in the refrigerator case, there was no ground beef out, so I had to go up to the butcher’s counter again. And, well, who do I see but butcher the younger, again, at my service. He didn’t chat so much while he was cutting up the beef I needed but as he handed it over, he spent quite a while telling me how important it was for me to believe that they have the freshest beef, even though you see that this beef I have cut off, here, has a different colour on the outside than on the inside…that’s just because it’s later in the day, but we really do have good quality beef here, and you must trust our quality, and it’s really good beef, and that slight discoloration is really nothing to worry about, and you absolutely must believe in us. Smiling charmingly the whole way through. Of course, I’m laughing and agreeing with him enthusiastically the whole time. Hmm, I think I’m flirting with the butcher, or he’s flirting with me, or something. Expect more recipes featuring beef for the next little while.

Oh, and as I was leaving the store? It started raining. Hands full and no umbrella. Next time that happens, I’m going back in and borrowing an umbrella from butcher boy.

Beef and Barley Soup
Adapted very liberally from Extending the Table, because I didn’t have peas (used green peppers instead) and I realized I still had some squash to use up.

1/2 lb. cubed stewing beef
1 lg. onion, diced
6 c. beef broth
3-4 stalks celery, diced
1 green pepper, diced
2 lg. carrots, diced
1/2 medium butternut squash, cubed
1/3 c. pearl barley
2 T. vinegar
2 T. Worcestershire sauce
1 t. basil
Salt and pepper to taste

In bottom of soup pot, brown beef with onions and celery. Add broth to the pot, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until beef is tender. Add green pepper, carrots, squash, barley, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce and basil and simmer until barley, squash and carrots are all cooked. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add more water if needed, especially if reheating the next day, as barley may absorb a lot of the liquid.

Serve with warm, buttered slices of homemade bread.

And just to give you an idea of what I’ll be posting soon, this (below) is what I was up to this morning. I’m going to try to actually post recipes AS I make things (though that has always been the plan, of course) because I was looking through the over 800 food photos I have and I realized that even though I could probably locate the recipe that I started from, I now have no ripping clue how I actually made them. Dang.

Anyway, brownies. And pasta.

Recipe: This morning’s bread

Why do I always end up baking at 3 o’clock in the morning?

I didn’t make my knitting meeting this weekend, and it looks like my wacky sleep schedule will be interfering with the second of the lectures on Korean culture this evening…but at least I cooked.

I tried out a new sandwich loaf recipe, and it looks like I did things right this time: I didn’t end up with two bread-shaped doorstops. I think it was a combination of using less flour, not being too timid with the temperature of the water for the yeast, waiting until the yeast was good and foamy before mixing in the flour, and preheating the oven.

The original recipe comes from the wonderful world of King Arthur flour, but i tweaked a few things, so this is how I did it:

Basic White Bread

2 c. warm water
2 tablespoons golden sugar
1 (scant) T. dry yeast
1/2 cup whole milk powder
2 T. vegetable oil
5 c. (or more) bread flour
2 1/2 t. salt

Make sure the 2 cups of water is about the temperature that you would love for a bath–you know, bearable when you stick your finger in to test it, but you start really feeling the heat after a few seconds. Basically, as hot as you can handle. Pour the warm water into your mixing bowl, along with the sugar, and stir to dissolve. Then, sprinkle the yeast over the surface of the water very gradually (this seems to help it dissolve faster, rather than all lump together.) Wait for the yeast to completely dissolve, then add the milk powder.

At this point, have a friend call you unexpectedly and interrupt you for about 15 minutes. When you come back, you’ll see that your mix is nice and foamy. Add 2 cups of flour and mix well. Add a further two cups of flour and mix. Sprinkle most of the remaining flour on the kneading surface and scrape the dough out onto the surface.

Knead the dough for two to three minutes, until it seems to be coming together, using more flour if you need to, but not too much (the dough will let you know when it’s had enough flour). Let it sit for a little while so you can wash and grease the bowl you were using, then knead for a couple minutes more. Place in greased bowl, turn over, and set in a warm place, covered with a damp towel, to rise until doubled (an hour or so).

Punch the dough down, and on a floured surface, knead it to remove any air pockets. Divide into two (even! why is that so hard?) pieces, shape into loaves, and place in two non-stick loaf pans. Slit the surface lengthwise, at least a centimeter and a half deep, and let rise, covered, until almost doubled (probably less than an hour).

Preheat the oven to 350 F and bake for 35 minutes.

As soon as possible, cut off two thick slices, toast them lightly, slather them with butter, and scoop some nectarine butter on top. Coz that’s what I did.

Pattern: Half-circle Susemi

This one is for Charlie, to match the dishcloth that I made for him earlier.

Pattern

Centre:
Use three colours of acrylic yarn and smaller size needle than suggested for yarn, to make a tighter stitch.

Round 1: Make adjustable loop, ch 1, 10 dc, sl st to beg. ch (10 sts., not including beg. ch 1)

Round 2: ch 3, 1 dc in next st, ch 1, (2 dc, ch 1) in each of remaining sts, sl st to beg. ch (20 sts, including beg. ch 3)

Round 3: ch 1, 2 sc at base of chain, 1 sc in next st, 1 sc in next ch space, (2 dc in next st, 1 sc in next st, 1 sc in next ch space) all the way around, sl st to beg ch (40 sts., not including beg. ch 1)

Round 4: ch 3, 1 dc in each of next 3 sts, ch 1, (4 dc, ch 1) all the way around, sl st to beg. ch (40 sts., including beg. ch 3)

Round 5: ch 1, 1 sc at base of chain, 1 sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next ch space, (4 sc, 2 dc in ch space) all the way around, sl st to beg. ch, cut yarn and sew in ends. (60 sts., not including beg. ch 1)

Fold piece in half (in the middle of row 4’s four dc’s, so that the little holes line up on both sides. If you do this susemi in watermelon colours, those holes can be the “seeds”)

Border:
Attach 2nd colour of yarn and ch 3. 1 dc in same st, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st. 1 dc in each of next 2 sts, continue with (2 dc, 1 dc, 1 dc) all around, sl st in beg. ch, cut yarn and sew in ends. (40 sts., including beg. ch 3)

Attach 3rd colour of yarn (or stay with 2nd colour) and ch 1, 1 sc in same st, sc in each st all around, and either cut yarn and sew in ends, or make a 10 ch loop, sl st to join, cut yarn and sew in end.

Questions, concerns, confusions? Leave a comment below!

P. S. (Sept. 26) Charlie came over for lunch (though he didn’t eat anything coz his stomach was upsetting him) and I gave him his susemi. He seemed quite pleased.

Pattern: Square Gradation Susemi

After I saw a picture of this one, I just HAD to figure out how to do it. I love the effect of the raised posts. (It wasn’t that difficult, though. I found blurry diagram, and after lots of squinting and magnifying, I think I’ve got the right pattern.) The pictures I saw showed the susemi done in three colors in a gradient, from lightest in the middle, to darkest on the outer round, but you could probably do a four-colour gradient, or any other colour combination. This is a really good, thick susemi. I used the front-post double crochet (FPdc) in the citrus susemi, but this pattern uses the back-post double crochet (BPdc) as well. My new favourite stitches!

Square Gradation Susemi Pattern
Use acrylic yarn in three colours, from lightest to darkest, and a hook in a size recommended for the yarn, or slightly smaller if you want tighter stitches.

Round 1: Make an adjustable loop to start, and ch 3. 2 dc, ch 2, (3 dc, ch 2) 3 times, sl st to beg, ch. (12 sts.)

Round 2: In 2-ch space just before the slip stitch join at the end of round one, 1 sc, ch 2, then 1 dc in same space. (1 FPdc, 1 BPdc, 1 FPdc along next 3 stitches, then 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in ch space). Repeat same post stitches and chain-space stitches around to end, stopping with 2 ch, sl st to beg. ch. (28 sts.)

Round 3: Join new colour and proceed the same as round 2, only with 7 alternating FPdc/BPdc’s. Each 2-chain space will still have 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc. (44 sts.)

Round 4: Same as round 3, only with 11 alternating FPdc/BPdc’s, and with 3rd colour. Cut yarn and sew in ends. Make sure to pull tight the original loop and secure, as well. (60 sts.)

If I’ve made any mistakes, or I haven’t been clear enough, please feel free to leave a comment.

Pattern: Pinapple Susemi

For some reason, I really like this pattern, which is something that I wouldn’t have predicted. I tend to like colourful, bold, geometric, repetitive patterns in crochet–stripes, squares and dots. This has no repeats, it’s an irregular shape, and it’s kind of finicky and old-fashioned looking. Maybe it’s because the shape is surprisingly complex compared to how simple the pattern of stitches feels; the shape just seems to “happen”. Maybe it’s that the form is so useful. It’s the perfect hand-size for washing dishes, you can put two fingers through the hole at the top to make it easier to wash cups, the fact that it’s a pouch means that it can have multiple uses: soap saver, candy bag, mojo amulet, etc., etc.

Pineapple Susemi
Use any acrylic yarn, with the suggested size of hook for that yarn

Make adjustable loop (see my previous post for a description of this) so you can pull it tight later.

Round 1: ch 3, 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, sl st in beg. ch. Pull loop tight and secure. (10 sts.)

Round 2: ch 3, 1 dc in base of chain, ch 1, 2 dc in next st, ch 1, (1 dc, ch 1) in each of next 2 ch spaces, (2 dc, ch 1) in each of next 4 sts, (1 dc, ch 1) in each of next 2 ch spaces, (2 dc, ch 1) in each of next 2 sts, sl st to beg. ch. (20 sts.)

Round 3: (1 sc, ch 2, 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1) in first ch space. (1 sc, ch 1) in each of next 3 ch spaces, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1) in next chain space, skip one chain space, then (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1) in following chain space. (1 sc, ch 1) in each of next 3 ch spaces, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1) in next chain space, sl st to beg. ch. (22 sts.)

Round 4: Same as round 3, but there will be four (1 dc, ch1) in a row, along the four chain spaces (24 sts.)

Round 5, Same as round 3 and 4, but there will be five (1 dc, ch1) in a row, along the five chain spaces (26 sts.)

Round 6: (1 sc, ch 2, 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in first ch space, ch 3, 1 sc in 4th st, 1 sc in ch space, 1 sc in next st, 1 sc in next ch space, 1 sc in next st, ch 3. Skip next 2 ch spaces and (2 dc, ch 1) twice in third chain space, skip the next ch space, (2 dc, ch 1) twice in next ch space, chain 2 more, 1 sc in 4th st, 1 sc in ch space, 1 sc in next st, 1 sc in next ch space, 1 sc in next st, ch 3. Skip next 2 ch spaces and (2 dc, ch 1) twice in third chain space, sl st to beg. ch. (26 sts.)

Round 7: Same as round 6, but do 3 sc in a row, in 2nd, 3rd and 4th sc from previous row. (22 sts.)

Round 8: Same as row 6 and 7, but do only 1 sc in center of sc on previous row. (18 sts.)

Round 9: (1 sc, ch 2, 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in first ch space, 1 dc in sc, (2 dc, ch 1) twice in 2nd ch space, skip one ch space, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch space, 1 dc in sc, (2 dc, ch 1) twice in 2nd ch space, sl st to beg. ch, sc in next ch sp, ch 12 for handle, sl st to attach in next ch space. Cut yarn and sew in ends. (18 sts.)

Phew!~

Okay, if that doesn’t make any sense, or if I’ve made a mistake somwhere, please leave a comment!

Pattern: Citrus Slice Susemi

This pattern and other susemi patterns to follow in later posts are based on a tutorials/photos from Korean websites and a photos of Japanese visual patterns. In many cases, the photos are blurry and hard to read, so I have had to guess at a lot, or I have modified the patterns somewhat, and am writing them out in full, in English, for my (and others’) future reference. I think that’s enough to satisfy myself that I’m not violating copyright.

To make a beginning loop that can be tightened later: Hold the tail of the yarn in the palm of your hand and wrap it (moving away from you) twice around the end of your index and middle fingers held together. Press all the threads together where they converge at the top with your thumb and slide this loop off your fingers, and hold the loop with your thumb and forefinger. Reach in through the middle of the loop, hook the yarn and pull up a loop, then reach over the top of the loop, hook the yarn and pull through to secure. Now you can start at the same place you would if you had chained a loop and slip stitched to secure.

Citrus Slice Susemi
Three colours of acrylic yarn, size 6 hook, or size small enough to make a fairly tight stitch
For mine, the colours were:
Colour 1: Yellow
Colour 2: Orange
Colour 3: Bright Orange

Note: When you are switching colours, make sure to keep the travelling yarn loose in back, and to not twist or tangle your strands of working yarn. In fact, keep the balls of working yarn separate so the yarn is coming from two different directions.

Front Piece:
Make a beginning loop as described above
Round 1: with colour 1, ch 1, sc 8x in loop, sl st to beginning chain. Pull tail of loop tight to completely close the middle hole, and secure. (8 sts., not including beg. ch 1)

Round 2: ch 2 , secure colour 2 yarn to working yarn near the top of the chain, ch 1 with colour 2 (so that the beginning chain is ch 3, with the top ch in the second colour) , 2 dc into same stitch (first sc of previous round), but do not pull through last loop of second dc–with 2 loops remaining on hook, pick up colour 1 again and pull through to complete second dc. 1 dc into next stitch with colour 1, but again, complete the last loop of the dc with colour 2 yarn. 2 dc with colour 2 in same stitch, complete last loop of second dc with colour 1 yarn. 1 dc with colour 1 yarn in next stitch, completing dc with colour 2, and making 2 more dc in same stitch. Repeat all the way around so that there are 24 stitches total (including first chain), 3 stitches (one colour 1 and 2 colour 2) in each sc. On last dc of round, make sure to finish it with the final loop in colour 1, then sl st to beginning chain.

Round 3: ch 2, switch to colour 2 and ch 1. 2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next st, switching to colour 1 on last loop. 1 front-post dc (FPdc), switching to colour 2 on last loop, 2 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next st, switching to colour 1 for FPdc, continue around so that there are 32 st total, and last loop of last dc is colour 1. Sl st to top of first chain.

Round 4: ch 2, switch to colour 2, (1 sc, 1 hdc) in next st, 2 dc in next st, (1 hdc, 1 sc) in next st, finishing off last sc in colour 1, 1 FPdc, switching to colour 2 on last loop, (1 sc, 1 hdc) in next st, 2 dc in next st, (1 hdc, 1 sc) in next st, finishing off last sc in colour 1, 1 FPdc, switching to colour 2 on last loop, continue around and sl st with colour 1 to end row. (56 sts)

Round 5: (This round all in colour 1) ch 3, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc in each of next 2 st, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 FPdc, repeat around, omitting last FPdc, and sl st to beginning chain after last dc. Cut yarn and sew in end. (72 sts)

Back Piece:
Round 1: Make loop, ch 1, 8 sc, sl st to beg. ch, pull loop tight and secure.

Round 2: ch 3, 2 dc in first sc, 3 dc in each sc around, sl st to beg. ch. (24 sts)

Round 3: ch 3, 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next, repeat (2 dc, 1 dc) around and sl st in beg. ch. (36 sts)

Round 4: ch 3, 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts, (2 dc, 1 dc, 1 dc) all the way around and sl st in beg. ch. (48 sts)

Round 5: ch 1, and in order to make 72 sts like front piece, alternate 1 sc/2 sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first ch, cut yarn and sew in ends.

Border:
With colour 3, single crochet all the way around, 1 sc per stitch, and going through both top loops of stitches on both rounds. Cut yarn and sew in ends.

You can make this susemi larger by adding one more round.
On the front piece, one repeat would look like this:
Round 4: 1 FPdc, 2 dc, 1 dc, 1 dc
Round 5: 1 FPdc, 1 sc, (1 hdc, 1 dc), (1 dc, 1 hdc), 1 sc
Round 6: 1 FPdc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc, 2 sc, 2 sc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc (72 st total around)

On the back piece, one repeat would look like this:
Round 5: 2 dc, 1 dc in each of next 3 sts
Round 6: 2 sc, 1 sc in each of next 5 sts (72 sts total around)

Also, you can chain a little loop handle before you cut the yarn on the border row.

And there you have it. I know I haven’t written in standard crochet pattern format, so if there are any mistakes or if anything is unclear, please leave a comment.